Crape myrtle is ideally suited for formal or informal design in the home landscape, street plantings and community plantings. It can be planted as a specimen or in groups, and looks attractive when underplanted with a ground cover; the dark green of the groundcover contrasts well with the handsome bark.

It adapts well to confined spaces, and is, therefore, well-suited for small areas close to sidewalks or parking lots, and can provide shade in deck and patio areas. The flowers of some selections, however, may stain car paint, and the honeydew drops from aphids on the plant may stick on cars or patio furniture. As cultivars are now available in a wide range of growth heights, certain selections can be used under utility lines without fear of interfering with these lines.

The plant typically develops several main stems. These multi-trunk crape myrtles are more desirable than single stem plants in landscape plantings.

The ideal planting site is in well-prepared, well-drained soil, with full sun exposure and good air circulation. Crape myrtles planted in partial or full shade will have reduced flowering and increased disease susceptibility.

The plant will tolerate slightly alkaline to acidic (5.0 to 6.5 pH) clay and other soil textures. Although it tolerates drought, it requires irrigation until it is well-established (approximately two years). This is especially true when it is planted in confined areas.

Heavy nitrogen applications cause the plants to flower less and produce shoot and leaf growth that may be subject to winter injury. Light applications of a complete fertilizer in spring and summer are adequate.

Severe pruning of crape myrtles has become a common practice to maintain shrub size. This ruins the natural, graceful effect of the plant. Many dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars are now available, making it possible for the homeowner to have the desired plant size while maintaining the natural branching effect. For more information on the pruning of crape myrtle.

CULTIVARS

Many crape myrtles are hybrids of L. indica and L. fauriei, developed at the U.S. National Arboretum in Washington, D.C. These were bred for disease resistance, good flowering and attractive bark. (Disease resistance means that infections are few, do not progress very far or do not occur). Some of the selections resistant to powdery mildew include:

* ‘Acoma’ – This shrub/small tree is 10 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Flower is white.
* ‘Muskogee’ – This large shrub/small tree is 21 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Flower is light lavender-pink. Aphids especially like this plant, so sooty mold can be a problem.
* ‘Natchez’ – This large shrub/small tree may grow 25 feet tall. Flower is white, and exfoliating bark is exceptional. This is a favorite.
* ‘Sioux’ – This large shrub/small tree is 15 feet tall and 12 feet wide. Flowers are dark pink.
* ‘Tuscarora’ – This large shrub/small tree grows 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Flower is dark coral pink.
* ‘Tuskegee’ – This large shrub/small tree grows 15 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Branching is horizontal. Flower is deep rose.

The following are considered somewhat resistant to powdery mildew:

* ‘Catawba’ – This shrub/small tree is 12 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Flower is dark purple.
* ‘Cherokee’ – This shrub is 10 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Flower is brilliant red.
* ‘Seminole’ – This shrub grows 8 feet tall and 7 feet wide. Flower is clear medium pink. These first flowers can be cut, promoting a second bloom three to four weeks later.