Taking the temperature of a mixed-up intake vent
By Darrell Hay
Q: I have a cold-air intake vent in the lower part of the wall of my second-floor hall landing. At intermittent times, the cold-air intake will have warm air coming from the vent. Could you tell me if this is normal or a hazard?
A: “Intermittent times” is rather vague, but let’s work with it. If hot air comes out of the vent during furnace operation, you have a problem with reversed or blocked airflow, which needs to be investigated by a heating contractor.
On the other hand, if the furnace is located directly behind and below this wall vent, and you feel hot air only after the furnace shuts down after a relatively long run period, you have no worries — this is just ambient heat radiating from the furnace and venting out where it can.
Q: My electric baseboard heater ticks badly. What can I do about that? Should I replace it?
A: Baseboard heaters tick as they expand and contract with temperature changes. Generally, lower-quality components in the heater and years of thermal cycling will cause the ticking. Replacing the heater will stop the noise (and they are relatively inexpensive), but you may also be able to quiet it in some other ways:
• An electronic thermostat will lessen your problem. Old mechanical thermostats allow a 2- to 5-degree swing in room temperature before cycling on or off. The newer types cycle on and off every few seconds, depending on how they are programmed.
This constant temperature sampling and on/off electric current not only keeps the room at a more constant temperature, but it also prevents rapid temperature changes in the heater, lessening the ticking and wear.
• Allow the heater to completely cool, and after turning off power to the heater at the breaker box and turning the thermostat completely off, remove the front cover (it generally is a snap-type lock). You will see thin aluminum fins; these radiate the heat. If any are bent or touching each other, align them to not touch.
Also, some may have spun on the bar. Twist and align all fins. Even a slight movement of the fins can prevent annoying ticking noises. The attachment points of the bar to the housing will also be subject to movement and ticking and can be manipulated and loosened or tightened as necessary to eliminate noises.
• Less often, the heater housing itself will creak or tick as it heats. Altering its attachment point to allow for movement, or even a spray lubricant in the corners of the metal, will eliminate ticking.
Darrell Hay is a local home inspector and manages several rental properties. Send home-maintenance questions to dhay@seattletimes.com. Sorry, no personal replies.
source : seattletimes.nwsource.com


