Delicious herbs from the garden
June 01, 2007 By: Momoy Category: HerbsHenne Kirkeby Kro is situated in the centre of the beautiful, wild nature of Western Jutland. A traditional roadside inn that has offered accommodation and food to travellers since 1790. And it still does. But Henne Kirkeby Kro is much more than a roadside inn. Unique gourmet experiences are created in the kitchen, and with Hans Beck Thomsen, senior chef and owner for 25 years, the inn has been able to obtain international recognition as a gourmet restaurant.
Hans Beck Thomsen is the third generation of the inn which was previously run by his parents and before then by his grand parents. The gourmet chef is thus a product of the sandy soil of West Jutland, a fact that is reflected in his culinary art which is dominated by local raw materials.
- It is always difficult to see the exclusiveness of the products growing just outside your door. But I think we owe it to our region to use its delicious, unique raw materials such as fish from Hvide Sande and roe-deer from the woods, says Hans Beck Thomsen who does whatever he can to keep Henne Kirkeby Kro self-sufficient in berries, vegetables and herbs.
Trial and error
Behind the beautiful, old inn, Hans Beck Thomsen has made a large, attractive kitchen garden where all the chefs of the inn can get fresh herbs and vegetables throughout the season.
Lemon thyme, tarragon, rosemary and parsley are growing among many different salvia varieties, savory, basil and plenty of chives.
- We use numerous herbs in our food and love to combine things. Many people are afraid of using herbs. They shouldn’t be. Trial and error is what matters, but it is also important to know that the flavours involved are strong and significant, says Hans Beck Thomsen who has perch with sage, spring lamb with lemon thyme, rosemary caramel ice cream, etc. on his menu.
- It’s quite unique what is available at the 55th latitude where we live, i.e. in the midst of the last larder before we get too far to the north. A larder which we tend to overlook, unfortunately. What grows up slowly gets more flavour. This is why we have plenty of opportunities to create unique gustatory experiences here, says Hans Beck Thomsen.
Favourite herbs
Mushroom cappuccino is one of the dishes on the menu at Henne Kirkeby Kro which one would like to know more about. A mushroom soup whipped with garlic and tarragon to resemble – but in no way to taste like – cappuccino.
- I love using lemon thyme, tarragon and parsley, and wouldn’t dream of making stock without adding herbs, says Hans Beck Thomsen indicating that the art is to combine things in such a way that each individual raw material shows to the best advantage.
- The individual flavours have to accentuate each other. Not drown each other. If too much is mixed together, the result will be confusing. It does not have to be so complicated. The job is to combine taste sensations so that the herbs can still be kept apart. Otherwise their qualities will be wasted, and that’s a shame, says Hans Beck Thomsen.
At Henne Kirkeby Kro, traditional Danish dishes are prepared alongside exciting new dishes, always paying respect to the fulcrum: the raw materials.
- Plaice with parsley and potatoes is a classic. And why change that? However, we can easily prepare something different. Tarragon and asparagus, for example, are fantastic with fish. But then it is just a new dish that we make, says Hans Beck Thomsen who upholds traditions and, as he says, is playing with them once in a while.
The world’s first dessert garden
Last year, a charming rose garden was added to the Henne Kirkeby Kro kitchen gardens where the guests can enjoy the atmosphere among the sweet-scented roses. It should be noted that the roses are also used for cooking purposes. Lovely herbs are growing among the roses - herbs that the chefs don’t mind using too.
This year, the garden will probably also be extended with the worlds first dessert garden.
- We will collect all the plants which the dessert chef may need in an actual dessert garden, says Hans Beck Thomsen.
Various mint varieties, lemon balm, sweet cicely and lemon verbena are obvious plants for the dessert garden, but rosemary and sage are also needed for both are used in the dessert chef’s specialties: sage and rosemary ice, etc.
The beds will also have rhubarbs, small sweet strawberries, raspberries, other berries and a colourful selection of flowers.
- We are using many flowers in our kitchen, not least to decorate our desserts. Sweet violets, marigolds, fuchsia and common nasturtium are among the many flowers that will show our dessert garden from its best, says Hans Beck Thomsen, who obviously loves his gardens and is enthusiastic about the options provided by herbs and flowers for enriching cookery.
source : www.hortinews.com
